Hello friends,
I hope all is well where you are, and that you are managing to keep body and soul together as we watch these troubling times unfold around us.
Our recently produced show, Spycraft, has turned out to be unfortunately topical – not something we expected when we began writing it in 2020. The script follows the adventures of a 50-something woman, Audette Whitlock – who happens to be a hidden Jew – as she spies on the Nazis in Occupied France during WWII for Churchill’s secret army, The Special Operations Executive (SOE). She battles fascism and antisemitism using her wits, mathematical and coding prowess, and knitting.
And now, here we are today, dealing with fascism, antisemitism, and ‘othering’ of all kinds. The fight never ends, I suppose. So, we soldier on. In this newsletter I’m picking up where I left off in detailing the work that went into the knitting of Spycraft. Not just the techniques or craft of the stitching, but the thoughts and process behind the choice of images and coded messages embedded in the knitting of the show’s costumes and props.
I’ll pick up the thread here, so to speak, with the vest I designed for the character of Simon Rawlings, played by Blair Williams, a veteran SOE operative tasked with heading a covert operation to Cherbourg to uncover intelligence about Hitler’s construction of “The Atlantic Wall,” designed to repel any Allied invasion. Simon’s backstory was that he had just returned from a botched operation in Occupied France where the majority of his espionage team had been rounded up by the enemy due to their lack of experience and training.
As with Gerald’s Lions waistcoat, we decided to make this a Fair Isle piece. It would have that home-made look, and because it would be using a maximum of two colours per row, my collaborator and knitting saviour, Lynne Pascoe of Sheep’s Clothing, would be able to knit it on her knitting machine. (During this time, I was pulling my hair out knitting a form-fitting intarsia sweater for another character, so I was unavailable – more on that later). Keeping with the same approach as Gerald’s Lions, the pattern used a couple of large repeating representational icons to pull focus away from the code, which was embedded in the smaller, seemingly decorative five-row motifs. As we were looking for a good range of colour and a gauge that matched what was available in the 1940s, we went with Sport weight yarn from Briggs & Little, made of 100% Canadian wool.
The first decision was to settle on what those large icons would be. Because of Simon’s connection with France, and because he would be wearing the vest in Cherbourg, I went with the Fleur de Lis for the first icon.
The SOE, being a paramilitary organization, had its own crest which featured a parachute and a dagger.
I really wanted to use that crest, but of course, it wouldn’t be very wise for a spy to wander around enemy territory broadcasting his profession by wearing an SOE crest. So, it had to be hidden. The science of hiding messages in plain sight is called steganography – and this is where the fun is. I came up with a simplified knitted version of the parachute and dagger, inverted it, and then alternated right-side up and upside-down versions of it. Here are a couple of sketches of some different colour ways:
Next was inserting the coded message into the sweater. As with Gerald’s Lions, I used basic five-row Fair Isle motifs, each one corresponding to a specific letter of the alphabet. Simon’s message was longer than Gerald’s, so I was obliged to continue it on the back of the vest. This made the back and the front of the vest different, which meant that the rows didn’t line up evenly at the seams. This bugged me for a while, and Lynne and I experimented with adding a vertical column of plain colour up the seam to mask the fact that the rows didn’t match up… but that didn’t make things any better. In the end, we figured that Blair’s arms would provide enough masking and stopped worrying about it. Here’s the pattern along with the legend to the code if you’d like to work it out for yourself. If you haven’t the time to do that, the code is revealed below.
There is a maxim that goes like this: “There are old soldiers, and there are bold soldiers, but there are no old bold soldiers.” I used to think this meant that all the bold soldiers invariably got themselves killed. But as I’ve aged, it has occurred to me that those bold soldiers may have indeed survived, but in doing so, gained experience. They now know what can go wrong, and how dangerous acting impulsively can be. The bold soldiers haven’t died, they have matured. As an experienced agent, and having just returned from a botched operation, Simon is that kind of soldier. With that in mind, Claire and I decided that the thematic message for his sweater would be “your best teacher is your last mistake.”
Here's how the vest turned out:
And here’s how it looked on Blair on stage:
Next newsletter, I’ll share the design and knitting process for the Secretary Sweater for the Spycraft character of June, played by Charlotte Dennis.
In other news, Claire and I have lots going on. Here are a few upcoming events where you can see us either virtually or in person:
May 17, 2-4pm ET: My talk about Spycraft at The Center for Knit and Crochet
I’m looking forward to being an online guest speaker for The Center for Knit and Crochet on May 17, 2-4pm ET. I will be giving a talk about our play, Spycraft. The Center, based in Wisconsin, preserves and promotes the art, craft, and scholarship of knitting, crochet, and related arts.
June 2, 6pm ET: “Abroad: Patchwork Pride” short documentary screening, Tranzac Club
The wonderful filmmaker and social media content maker Neville Madill went to the UK last year with us on our tour to follow us on our journey as we brought The Patchwork Pride Project to Canada House on London’s Trafalgar Square for Pride Month. The result is a great short documentary. Doors at the Tranzac Club, 292 Brunswick Avenue, Toronto, open on June 2 at 6pm for those who’d like to show up early for a casual knit-along; then, at 7:30 pm, Neville and I will give a talk before the screening. Proceeds from the fundraiser go towards supporting the innovative 519 Community Centre, which is committed to the health, happiness and full participation of the 2SLGBTQ+ communities.
Tues, June 30, 6-8pm: The Lost in France Book launch - SAVE THE (NEW!) DATE
The Book Launch for Claire’s new novel Lost in France has moved dates. The book’s official pub date is June 23, and moving the launch to June 30 means you have time to collect your book and bring it to the launch party and have it signed by the author.
Come get Lost in France...by way of Ireland. Or at least at a great Irish pub, our local: Noonan's Irish Pub at 141 Danforth Avenue (between Broadview and Chester Stations, south side of Danforth). Author Nathan Whitlock, also creator of the author podcast What Happened Next, will be on deck to interview Claire for a short Q&A. Join us.
Thanks for reading, friends. Looking forward to next time.
Kirk
